Wild mushrooms flavour of season

Ranchi: Mushroom, which grows in abundance in the wilderness here during monsoon, is popular among tribals as well as city-dwellers.
Markets are flooded with different types of mushrooms— the most popular being protein-rich rugras and khukris — in July and August.
The demand for seasonal ‘rugras’, which usually grow in Jharkhand forests and are sold for Rs 200 a kg at Ranchi markets, is the highest.These mushrooms sprout after lightning strikes the ground.
“Everyone in my family loves it, especially when I make it as a curry. However, I always make sure that I go and buy the best ones,” said 50-year-old Bharati Devi, who buys rugras from vendors at Kutcheri.
The other kind, khukhri, is a common variety and is also cultivated in farms. Many buyers also opt for ‘chandan rugra,’ the brown seasonal mushrooms.
Shruti, who loves mushrooms, said, “I have a friend in West Bengal who loves to come in this season just to have mushroom curry.”
Despite the popularity of mushrooms in the state as well as outside it, there is no organized farming or processing. Most villagers, who lack training, collect the mushrooms from forests and sell them in the market.
This prompts many buyers to opt for packaged mushrooms sold at retail shops. Locals say it is important to clean rugras bought from local markets before cooking or else they stink.
Scientists say decaying leaves of deciduous forests in the state form humus that helps rugras grow. Khukhris, on the other hand, can be cultivated by using wheat bran, maize waste or paddy straw.
But abject poverty and lack of irrigation makes cultivation a big challenge for many villagers. They have no option other than depending on rain-fed crops and forest products like rugras.
Many tribal women at Khunti market say they have to travel more than 20km every morning to collect rugras. Sometimes they buy from local markets in Bandhgaon, Murhu and Tebo and sell in Khunti town.
Sunil Karmakar of Dumka gave up oyster mushroom farming around a decade ago because fertilizers were expensive in the state and the whole process was not much developed.
Manoj Singh, a seller of packaged button mushrooms at Lalpur said, “I get these from Patna. I have no idea how to get them from farms here. It is easier for me to get them from Patna.”
However, many NGOs have conducted workshops over the years to train villagers in cultivation of oyster, button and milky mushrooms.
“Many tribal women these days are being involved in the cultivation of mushrooms in their own homes,” says Ram Bhagat, a member of Jharkhand Jan Seva Trust in Dumka.
Bhagat says the centre’s Van Bandhu Kalyan Yojana has been helpful in inducting tribal women into the mushroom cultivation business.
“Mushrooms are easy to grow and the yield comes in four weeks ensuring fast returns. Also they can be grown within the premises of their houses which makes it easier to empower tribal women through this kind of cultivation,” he added.