This story is from June 22, 2017

Why inter-faith iftars have been the season’s highlight

Far from the clamour of food bans, a silent movement has gained pace, quite evident from the open-house iftars, food walks and pop-ups over the past Ramzan month...
Why inter-faith iftars have been the season’s highlight
Far from the clamour of food bans, a silent movement has gained pace, quite evident from the open-house iftars, food walks and pop-ups over the past Ramzan month...
If you grew up in a multicultural environment – the quintessential housing society in Camp, for example, where people gathered around the Ganpati pandal and Christmas tree with equal elation, awaited Khadija Aunty’s sheer khurma, or the mitthi sev from Ms Dalal’s kitchen during Eid and Navroz respectively – chances are, you may not identify with what’s to follow.
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We apologise.
While you grew up among these differences – of language, food, and lifestyles – considering them completely “normal”, times have changed. Thanks to our busy lives, we all seem to be sporting blinders, indifferent to each other’s differences. Not to forget the tumult of bans on food now. One can rant and protest, but one can also create occasions for people to convene and understand one another, as is the case with a group of Muslim women in Noida, who hosted an inter-faith iftar in early June.
It started with a Facebook post by speaker, author and entrepreneur, Nazia Erum, one of the hostesses. She shares, “During research for my book on mothering a Muslim, I realised how little Indians knew about Muslims and their customs. A survey by the Centre for the Study of Developing Societies (CSDS) also showed how only 33 per cent Hindus considered a Muslim among their close friends. This led me to realise that the rest might not have even attended an iftar.” Nazia’s post asked if there was anyone who hadn’t been to an iftar before. It was an open invitation to an iftar party. Expecting three-four responses, she was flooded with over 30. Just when the task of hosting so many people suddenly seemed daunting, other Muslim women connected to pitch in. Someone let out their house, while others agreed to cook. “In the end, there were 12 of us who hosted the evening, of which I knew only four women personally,” says Nazia.
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Many, travelling from Gurgaon and Delhi to Noida for the iftar, were visiting a Muslim household for the first time. “No one giggled or spoke at first. They sat upright. But soon, not only did I see, but I also heard apprehensions being dispelled. Guests were surprised to see vegetarian food on the table, while others were in awe of how well-articulated we were,” recalls Nazia. One of the guests, Gauri Sarin, says, “For the 20-odd years that I’ve been into executive search, I’ve found a countable number of Muslims walking in for senior positions. But here were women, all achievers – authors, teachers, historians, pilots, bikers, journalists, lawyers and food entrepreneurs.” What stood out for Gauri was meeting so many like-minded Muslim women, but the fact that we don’t meet them often. Through the meal, she was also able to see how the purpose of fasting was so common to her own beliefs of the same. “I would love to see Hindus throw an iftar party for Muslims, and this is something I’m going to do next year,” she adds.

While these seem to be gaining ground, others say that iftars have always been this way. Boat Club Road resident, hair and makeup artist Saba F Poonawala, says, “For as long as I can remember, it has always been an open house at my place. If someone couldn’t make it for some reason, we’d even send food boxes home.” Charholi resident Ria Nadkarni, who belongs to a city inter-religious youth group, also recalls relishing modaks and sheer khurma at its Eid-cum-Ganesh Chaturthi celebration in 2010, when the two festivals almost coincided. So what’s new or different, one might ask. Nazia says, “We’ve always invited friends and neighbours, but the need now to is go beyond those who accept us, and include people who’ve never attended an iftar before.”
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Beyond iftars, the closest example of community sharing is the Ramzan food trails that have been taking place. Jayesh Paranjape, who conducts such food walks, says, “They provide a chance to understand people and their food culture, and change perceptions. 10 people joined me at Kausar Baug this time where we got to sample cuisines ranging from Afghan to Turkish. We returned feeling enriched at the thought of having tried something new.”
And in times when politics doesn’t seem to spare food as well, pop-up meals have been serving as the perfect means to break barriers and forge ties. Throughout Ramzan, people have been travelling from across town to visit Kalyani Nagar home chef Rizwana Yusuf’s house for her Bohri iftar. “Most diners who visit have never sat around the thaal before. I get questions from them, about how we break our fast, and the concept of the thaal, and it’s nice explaining the various customs related to the meal, such as why we begin with salt, and the reason for alternating between ‘mithas’ (sweet) and ‘kharas’ (savoury),” says Rizwana. Aneesh Dhairyawan, co-founder of Authenticook, that organises such experiences, is of the opinion that food is capable of being a great unifier today. “What people are craving for today is an experience — a chance to understand a community’s culture through its food. There’s magic when people sit across the table and share a meal. Biases and prejudices wither away while we learn to understand and respect the community and its nuances,” says Aneesh.
By the time you finish reading this, inter-faith iftars would have taken place in Mumbai, Delhi, Hyderabad, Guwahati and Pune, including one at a blind school and one for underprivileged girls. As Ramzan nears its end, we hope this beautiful tradition makes a comeback, be it during Ganesh Chaturthi, Onam or Christmas.
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The city’s secular fabric
Pune isn’t new to inter-faith celebrations. Sachin Phadkar, an alumnus of Symbiosis Institute of Media and Communication, recalls the mood of the hostel when he kept Ganpati in his room, “There was an air of positivity all around for those 10 days. We felt a bond of unity and harmony among us.” Walk down the alleys of cantonment area during Christmas, and you’ll find its streets teeming with people who’ve come crib hopping. It’s a similar scene during Diwali in the old city, where people visit to partake in the deepotsav at Shaniwar Wada, Saras Baug and other old temples.
Beyond the food, it’s also about cultural exchange, and the values that Ramzan teaches us. Some people go for days without food and water, and Ramzan makes us understand the difficulty of doing so.
— Saba F Poonawala, who hosts open house iftars at her place
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