Velvety & green Tahura, a Deccan Ramzan tradition in a glass

Pune: The sun dipping during Ramzan causes the pace to quicken around food stalls and small neighbourhood shops. Large steel vessels are opened, ladles move swiftly and glasses of a pale green drink begin to fill up in quick succession. The drink is Tahura, thick and creamy, speckled with chopped pistachios and almonds and scented with the cool sweetness of khus syrup.The dense milk drink is made by blending chilled milk with rabri or khoya, a paste of dry fruits, dates and khus syrup. Some versions are topped with sabja seeds or a spoon of cream. The idea behind the drink is practical as well as indulgent. After fasting without food or water through the day, the body needs quick sugar, fat and hydration. Tahura offers all three in a single glass, making it especially popular for iftar — when people break their fast at sunset.The drink is believed to have emerged in the Ramzan night bazaars of Hyderabad, where vendors created rich milk drinks for people gathering after evening prayers. The tradition travelled across the Deccan, with migrant communities and food vendors. Today, Tahura surfaces every Ramzan in cities across India.In Pune, one of the places known for the drink is a small shop in Mominpura. Nasir Shaikh runs Tahura Cold Drink and began the venture in the 90s. "I started making the drink 36 years ago. It is available through the year, except in June and July. But the demand increases during Ramzan. Over 2,500 people come every day for the drink. It is made fresh and is rejuvenating in the summer," he said.Shaikh said before opening the shop, he ran a small juice stall serving a distinctive pineapple drink. "In 1990, I opened a shop and named it Tahura. I thought of introducing the rich milkshake to attract customers. It became popular quickly," he said.Shaikh said Tahura is believed to refer to a sweet drink described in sacred texts as a drink of heaven — a fitting association for something served when a long day of fasting ends.The drink is tied to memories of Ramzan evenings spent with family. Camp resident Abdul Kadir said, "My father would take us for Tahura after evening prayers when we were children. We would down the thick and sweet drink in minutes. Even today, it is a must during Ramzan."Many prefer to make their own version at home. Farzana Khan of Kondhwa said she prepares it for her family during the fasting month. "At home, we make it with chilled milk, a little rabri, dates, pistachios and khus syrup. It is simple and filling. One glass feels like a complete dessert after fasting the whole day."