Leftover glory

Nagpur: Those on a lookout for an eatery may give a miss to the dilapidated building in a barren courtyard. The bold yellow board does advertise that the place is Anandashram Bhojanalaya, Dhantoli.
But, the sight of two wash basins placed right at the entrance could still make a person think twice before entering. Once in, there is still no reassuring sign of a modern day eatery.Scrubbed stone floor, vacant walls, marble top tables, which have long lost their lustre, and men with bare torsos serving food.
The place was set up in 1924 by four partners Nandram Joshi, Champalal Joshi, Kodarji Purohit and KS Trivedi, who came to the city from Dungarpur in Rajasthan. “They were searching for means of livelihood and set up this bhojanalaya. At the same time, a restaurant selling snacks and lodging facilities were also set up for travellers,” says Jeevantram Joshi, the third generation owner of the place.
The clientele comprised farmers, traders, theatre artistes and politicians. “We had a branch at Mehadia Chowk set up in 1948, which was a bit upmarket. Actors and theatre persons like Nilu Phule and Ramesh Deo stayed there and the food would be sent from the bhojnalay,” says Joshi. That place was closed fifteen years back.
This eating joint has even catered to Mahatama Gandhi “When Bapu visited Nagpur, he would be staying at the Tikekar residence in Dhantoli and the food for him would be sent from our bhojanalaya,” says Joshi with pride.
An elevated area fitted with a huge fan and large tables was reserved for British officers. “The furniture was built in 1935. Before that, we used low stools and pattas for guest,” says Joshi. The cooks too came from Rajasthan.
“We served simple dal, rice, vegetables. Sweets were served only to those who were members of the bhojnalay,” says Joshi and adds that when Narasimha Rao was studying in Nagpur, he too would come and eat here.”
Today, acclaimed doctors Abhay and Rani Bang too frequent this place when in the city.
The food is still cooked on firewood. A tiny mixer and two rickety fridges lend a touch of modernity to the austere surroundings.
In contrast to the quietness of the bhojanalaya, the adjacent snack bar by the same name is bustling with customers. The place introduced rawa and rice dosa to the city. “In the olden times people residing in Dhantoli would visit this place. But, today the bulk of our customers are auto rickshaw drivers and medical representatives,” says Joshi.
This place has been given a makeover to catch up with modern trends. A 1935 vintage photograph of the place when it was fitted with new furniture occupies the pride of place near the counter. “Our aloo bonda and dahi vada are famous too, though now the size of bonda has reduced. What keeps us going is the fact that 60% of our clientele are those who visit the place daily,” says Joshi.