Devotion retains significance of Nagpur’s Bhonsle-era Shiva temples amid ruins

Nagpur: On Mahashivratri, as Nagpur's ancient Shiva temples brim with devotees offering bel leaves and abhisheks, a quieter story unfolds in the stone and mortar of these historic shrines of glorious past, spiritual continuity and creeping neglect.At the heart of the old city stands the Kelibagh temple complex, a prominent heritage ensemble dating back over 230 years, built under the patronage of the Bhonsle rulers. Once sheltered in the dense urban fabric of Mahal, the complex — comprising multiple shrines including Mahadev, Ganesh and Laksmi Narayan — suffered from decades of neglect, encroachment and even commercial use of parts of its precincts. However, on Mahashivratri, locals are seen cleaning the premises at least on the ground, ensuring the garbha griha (sanctum sanctorum) are adorned for the night-long rituals.
Sanjay Joshi, a resident of Mahal and regular visitor to the temple, said, "We saw the temple deteriorating over the years. It is one of the oldest heritage temples in the city, and yet it remains neglected. In fact, the shopkeepers also use the precinct to store material," he said, adding that weeds and debris now surround the monuments.Another Bhonsle-era structure, the Rukhmini temple complex, also traces its lineage to the late 18th century. It is a quiet complex built by Raghuji Raje Bhosale III for his courtesan Rukhmini Bai. As one steps through the main entrance, the shrine of Lord Shiva — Raghurajeshwar — stands prominently on the left, accompanied by temples dedicated to Lord Hanuman and Lord Ganesh within the same complex. Architect and heritage walk guide Mandira Neware said, "Constructed in the late 18th century using Rajasthani stone, the Shiva temple reflects the refined craftsmanship of the Bhonsle era. A distinctive feature of the structure is the sculpted Nandi motifs on three sides, designed to channel the abhishek water outward through carved outlets, blending ritual function with architectural detail."Almost all the pillars could be seen with visible cracks — reflecting years of neglect — with the major part of the temple premises covered with shrubs and weeds. Yet, ahead of Mahashivratri, residents undertake cleaning drives and illuminate the complex with decorative lighting to preserve the festive spirit.In the suburban precincts of Itwari lies a unique testament to antiquity at Tandapeth Mahadev temple. Inside its Jagruteshwar Devasthan complex rests an over 800-year-old Shiv-Parvati idol, likely originating from 12th-13th century CE, possibly linked to the Hoysala artistic tradition. A complementary carving from about 600 years later depicts the same deities on an outer shrine wall, making the site a rare layered chronicle of temple art across eras. While the structure around it evolved over time and required periodic upkeep, devotees and local committees ensured the sanctum and surrounding courtyard were cleaned and decorated for Mahashivratri celebrations.West of the core city centre at Telangkhedi stands another celebrated shrine, the Kalyaneshwar Shiv temple. Constructed in 1785 by Raje Raghuji Bhonsle II, this temple stood the test of time with comparatively better care. Listed again as a major heritage structure in the city, it boasts nearly 97 stone pillars, a carved garbha griha and mandap layout typical of its period. Though the temple's shikhar and structure required renovations over the years, devotees today — numbering in the thousands on Mahashivratri — still throng the shrine, with the entire complex illuminated and meticulously maintained for the festival.Neware added that beyond these prominent sites, the old city's narrow lanes shelter several lesser-documented Shiva shrines — from Pataleshwar Mahadev in Mahal to the Benigiri Wada Mahadev Temple, known for its 15 shivlingas, and Kalikar Mahadev, built in 1764, which houses one of the largest Nandis in the city. These neighbourhood temples, many regarded by residents as centuries old, remain integral to the spiritual fabric of the area. While they were freshly decorated with lights and rangolis for Mahashivratri and continue to witness vibrant worship, most lack formal heritage recognition or structured conservation support, leaving them increasingly vulnerable to urban pressures.A senior ASI official said, "In Nagpur city, none of these old Shiva temples are notified as Monuments of National Importance under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act. Across Vidarbha, however, the Archaeological Survey of India protects 94 monuments, including significant temples such as the Markandeshwar Mahadev Temple in Gadchiroli and the Anchaleshwar Temple in Chandrapur. These sites are maintained directly by ASI with regular conservation measures."He further added, "If anyone approaches us to include an ancient temple under ASI protection, we follow the prescribed procedure and assess its historical and architectural significance. If it meets the criteria and is officially notified, we take up regular conservation and maintenance."