LPG crisis: Bhissi eateries in Mumbai for migrant bag, zari workers shut

Mumbai: The last meal Mohammed Naim cooked at his Byculla-based Bhissi was the dinner before the ‘Chand Raat' or the evening the new crescent moon on the last day of Ramzan, ahead of Eid, was sighted last week. "When the LPG cylinders' shortage hit, I thought the crisis would end in a few days. But it continued and I had to stop the service and most of my clients have left for home," said Naim.

Derived from the word bees or 20 in Hindi, these Bhissis or Bissis originally catered to groups of 20. They cook meals for workers in unorganised sectors of bag manufacturing and zari units at crammed rooms in Madanpura, Dharavi and Govandi. These are low-income groups who pay Rs 500 for two meals a day for six days (Monday to Saturday) a week.


As the Bhissis shut, thousands of migrant workers left for home in Bihar, Jharkhand, UP and West Bengal. Those who are staying back may leave soon if the supply of cooking gas is not restored.

"They cannot afford to eat at restaurants. They prefer to go home rather than stay back and starve," said Abrar Ahmed Shaikh, a bag manufacturer at Madanpura. Shaikh employed 20 workers before the war began on Feb 28, but is now left with just three. "Even these three workers plan to leave. I cannot force them to stay back as arranging for food is almost impossible since there is a 27-day waiting period even for domestic LPG gas cylinders," said Shaikh. He added the black market from where many Bhissi owners procured gas cylinders has vanished.

Mohammed Anis would prepare meals for around 400 workers at his Bhissi in Central Mumbai. "I had to shut it a few days ahead of Eid. Like many workers who went home for Eid and did not return, I am at my village in Bahraich (UP). I do not think I will return and resume my business unless the gas cylinders are available," said Anis on phone.

Mohammed Ahsan Hassan, former secretary of Bihar Foundation who knows scores of migrant workers from Bihar in Dharavi, said a pandemic-like situation is emerging. "During the pandemic, migrant workers left as Bhissis and hotels shut. The same situation will hit us if cooking gas remains unavailable," he said.

Hassan added many roadside vendors would sell ready-to-eat idli sambhar in BKC. "Now, I do not see any of them. So where will many employees buy their breakfast or snacks from? They will eventually leave the city," said Hassan.

Bhissi owners cited a practical problem in cooking even if coal or charcoal is made available. "Bhissis run from cramped places in slums or chawls. If we cook food at charcoal-fired ovens, the smoke and heat at the tiny places will be unbearable. And we operate from rented places. Owners will not allow to cook meals on coal," said a Bhissi owner