Save the weekend for a ‘royal’ spread

KOLKATA: Rajasthani cuisine goes far beyond Dal-Baati-Churma, though this combo of contrasting tangs and textures is a signature that’s survived the ‘tastes of time’. In the country’s largest state, with distinctly different terrains and cultures within, it’s not surprising that the culinary spread should be wide and diverse.
Chef Kailash Maharaj, having honed his culinary skills in the rustic regions of Newai, brings to the table both the common thread and the contrasts in Khad cuisine, which captures the flavours and favourites from the regions of Marwar, Mewar, Shekhawati and Hadoti.
“I’ve spent a great deal of time specializing in this cuisine,” said the chef at the ‘Eden Pavilion’, ITC Sonar’s 24-hour restaurant where his spread, “which will be true to traditional ways”, will be presented as part of the dinner buffet from Friday.
The contrasts from the kitchen are clear, speaking for the soil from which they rose, mostly using what’s easily available locally and catering to climate and cultures. “There are vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian hunter’s fare, all enhanced with the spice of Mathania chilli, Jodpuri Longi Mirch, Pipla Mool and Pipal. Slow-cooking in coal-fired sandpit is the traditional method. Khad cuisine also incorporates the nuances of Jain cuisine, where onion and garlic are not used,” added chef Kailash.
Rajpur warriors of Mewar in south-central Rajasthan hunted and had meat in the pot by evening. The game may have gone in the wake of strict wildlife protection laws but the methods remain. “They express themselves through the mutton and chicken preparations,” says the chef who served the royalty of Udaipur and Jaipur before coming here.
The ‘Ramgari Machi’, ‘Nagori Mugh’ and ‘Sher-Bagh Maans’, the latter with a subtle sourness that goes with the succulent meat, explain what he expressed.
The vegetarian tradition is strong, and there were even royal kitchens where no non-vegetarian food was cooked. ‘Kamal Kakri Ki Shami’ (lotus stem kebab), ‘Bapla Baati & Matki Dal’, ‘Paneer Ki Suley’, ‘Khadrer Sev Tamater Ki Subzi’, ‘Khad Bharwa Mirch’, ‘Bikaneri Khichdi’… accompanied by rice and rotis (‘Kharta’ and ‘Bejar’ are two varieties), they add up nicely for a wonderful vegetarian experience.
If ‘Pudine Ke Sikanji’ and ‘Kairi Ki Chhaj’ provide the launch, ‘Masala Matri’ and ‘Sakarpara’ the starters, sweet offerings ‘Dilkhusar’, ‘Doodhiya Kheech’ and ‘Jariphal Choorma’ combine for the final crescendo.