As iconic Kovalam rides into the sunset, Vizhinjam makes waves

In 1998, when I left the state in search of employment, Kovalam was thriving, its picturesque beaches drawing visitors from around the world. Vizhinjam, on the other hand, was a quaint fishing hamlet, with little to suggest its future potential. Twenty-six years later, by 2024, these coastal twins have swapped destinies. Vizhinjam is on the verge of a transformation, with a massive port project—one of the country's only natural deepwater ports, 20 nautical miles off the international shipping line—and a promised investment of Rs 10,000 crore poised to catapult it into a major hub, a gateway for international trade. Meanwhile, Kovalam has slipped into decline, its once-celebrated shoreline showing signs of neglect.

The Kovalam I knew as a student volunteer in 1998 captured what foreign tourists sought in Kerala: The beaches looked natural and untouched. There were more trinket shops and fewer of the cheap lodges that masquerade as homestays. The seafront—a result of an attempted beautification—is now broken, the beach unkempt, and the local auto unions resist ride-sharing services. Local tourists – arriving in SUVs and tour buses – have largely displaced the international visitors who once defined its atmosphere.

As Covelong, the quiet beach had a good start when the Travancore Royal family built a castle and made it their retreat in the 30s. Soon, foreign tourists, especially those from Europe, the UK, and the US, discovered the cozy nook and made it famous. A tree-lined highway from the state capital led to the beach, making the drive enjoyable. Today, the charm has been lost. The highway has now been widened into a four-lane modern monstrosity. All the trees have been cut. Cars that whizz by at no less than 120-140km per hour will nearly miss the small sign board that says Kovalam. The junction has now been reduced to just another spot on the Thiruvananthapuram-Kanya Kumari highway where speeding motorists are wary about jaywalkers who hop across or an occasional auto or bus that cuts across to drive into the narrow tea shop-lined road to the beaches. But for the highway— built with scant disregard for Kovalam, often nearly blocking access points—nothing much has changed to match its international reputation.

This year, the season began sluggishly in October, according to travel and tour operators. Around 65,000 foreign tourists visited Kovalam in 2023, an improvement over the previous year but still shy of pre-Covid numbers, as Fort Kochi and Varkala emerge as strong competitors.

“Kovalam Arts and Craft Village in Vellar is the best thing that has happened in the past 25 years. Only one five-star resort was set up, as Coastal Zone Regulation barred construction 200m from the high tide line, blocking attempts to have more star-rated beach-view properties. KTDC added a convention hall to its property. The royal castle has been given on lease to a hotelier," said Dileep Kumar of Imperiance Hotels and Resorts, who has seen the place evolve over the years.

“It is now turning into a year-round domestic tourist destination," said M K Ajith Kumar of the India Tourism Forum. "Last week, I saw some foreign tourists outnumbered by domestic tourists, including Sabarimala pilgrims in several cars making a stopover.”

Nevertheless, the future does not look promising. The state govt’s grand plans to redevelop Kovalam have stalled. "These master plans look good in the presentations given by architects," said Kumar. This has delayed routine maintenance, setting up of toilets, and parking space. The only major parking lot near the beach is on private land. To top it all off is the govt's cluelessness about handling the tonnes of plastic waste that get washed up on the beaches after getting expelled into the sea from Karamana River, Parvathy Puthanar, and Amayizhanjanthode every time it rains heavily in the state capital.

Vizhinjam, in contrast, brims with the promise of a bright future. In July, as I walked down the congested road that led to the fishing harbour, I could see the six blue cranes standing tall afar like giant sentinels with their blue-yellow striped arms raised as if in salute to the huge container ships slated to sail in. The people I spoke to had mixed feelings about the new port that had taken shape after years of protest for and against it. Young residents see opportunities beyond traditional fishing while a few fishermen told me that they are worried about their small boats sharing waters with massive container ships. Their fear may need to be allayed because around 70 ships have sailed in and have unloaded close to 2 lakh containers since July, unprecedented during the trials.

Adani Vizhinjam Port CEO Pradeep Jayaraman is all upbeat about the port improving upon its performance though ships may be circumnavigating Africa due to the conflict in the Middle East. "Our location is good. There is no need for ships to take a detour." After proving transshipment operations, Jayaraman wants to handle exim cargo. That means plenty of opportunities to set up cargo processing units, container truck businesses, and jobs. The state govt is gearing up to set up economic zones and also a development triangle reaching up to Kollam and Punalur, hinting that trade can be a more powerful driving force than tourism.

While Vizhinjam is on autopilot, concerted efforts are needed to revitalize Kovalam, which has already become a shadow of its former self.


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