‘North East cuisine still virgin territory’

Atul Lahkar is credited with taking Assamese cuisine out of rural kitchens to Guwahati and beyond. The chef, who has rubbed shoulders with culinary legends like Gordon Ramsay, Vikas Khanna, Vineet Bhatia and Sanjeev Kapoor, takes TOI's Naresh Mitra on a lip-smacking journey across the northeast
What according to you is quintessential northeastern cuisine?
The region's location itself defines or shapes our cooking style and culinary tradition.We are located in one of the most biodiversity-rich zones of the world. The profusion of flora and fauna has shaped our food. It is organic and uses material derived from the nature here.
Secondly, the region is home to diverse tribes and sub-tribes. Each ethnic group has its own distinctive cooking techniques. This makes the culinary tradition of the northeast unique.
Dishes from the northeast are becoming popular in cities across the country. Is it a sign of things to come?
About thirty years ago, only one restaurant in Guwahati served Assamese food. Today, there are so many. Not just Guwahati, other parts of India, especially the metros, have eateries serving northeastern delicacies. Our food is healthy and organic.
These days presentation and garnishing are as important as taste
In Assam, there is an exquisite tradition of food presentation. We serve our food in traditional bell-metal utensils. I prefer modern crockery though.
What does food from the region provide to gourmands and food historians?
As far as the northeast's culinary tradition is concerned, it is still virgin territory waiting to be discovered. In fact, big names in the food industry have already started showing interest in dishes from here. I accompanied Ramsay, Khanna, Bhatia and other celebrity chefs in their culinary journey across the region. They were simply amazed by the diversity of our ingredients and cooking techniques. There is lot of scope for fusion and experimentation with our food, too.
Personally, I am all for retaining authenticity of regional cuisine. My domain is Assamese cuisine and I want to promote it in its true form. I am not in favour of diluting Assamese cuisine.