Terminal Decline of Goa Tourism

If the great poet TS Eliot lived in Goa in 2019, he might have written one of his most famous lines differently, “this is the way tourism ends, not with a bang but a whimper.” Less than two decades after the dawn of a new millennium brought unprecedented global attention and sustained international demand for the still-beautiful beaches, serene villages and vibrant composite culture of India’s smallest state, everything lies in shambles under an onslaught that is compounded by state mismanagement and woeful lack of vision. In a few blinks of the eye, much of what was special about Goa’s tourism brand has been grossly tarnished.


All is not lost, but stubborn denial is not helping and this newspaper has continually led reportage about the growing crisis.

As reported by this paper, deputy speaker

Michael Lobo

said last week, “Because of this type of tourists (low budget tourists) we’re not getting quality tourists. The good tourists have gone from Goa. If we don’t take corrective steps now, then tourism in Goa will die a slow death… On New Year’s morning there were thousands of discarded liquor and beer bottles on the beach stretch from

Candolim

to Baga, many of them broken. Because of all those broken bottles one couldn’t even walk on the beach with shoes. What kind of tourism is this? Why are we promoting this kind of tourism?”

These are entirely valid questions by the deputy speaker. For years now, it has been apparent that tourism in Goa has been deteriorating dangerously—in the absence of governance, enforcement or limits. Much of the industry operates with impunity, emboldening operators to continually push every limit of decency. In this lawless atmosphere, the fields become parking lots, the roadsides are used as kitchens and toilets, garbage gets strewn everywhere, and every kind of illegality flourishes openly.

Instead of focusing on the devastating toll being paid by the environment, society and culture, the government crows over highly dubious raw numbers – supposedly nearly 8 million visitors in 2017.

This is the way that tourism ends, but it does not have to happen. With political will and stakeholder solidarity, recovery is entirely possible. If the administration simply implemented the existing laws and regulations, the situation would dramatically improve. An all-encompassing tourism policy anticipating future challenges is long overdue. Goa’s brand must move towards built and environmental heritage, as well as the abiding peace and tolerance that has always been its main attraction. Whatever government investment is available is required to shore up, protect and preserve these crown jewels of the state’s global appeal.

At this crucial juncture for Goa tourism, wise heads and trustworthy hands are required to avert impending doom. But the motley crew in office does not inspire confidence. Even as the coastline groans under unprecedented mountains of festering garbage, they have collectively failed to address beach cleaning. Several ministers have separately decried the degradation caused by current tourism policies, but have failed to walk the talk. It’s an inherent contradiction, with immense political capital awaiting the first politician brave enough to break ranks in favour of the genuine interests of the electorate.

The writer is a photographer. The views expressed are personal.