Spice Route to the sweet tooth

Ever thought sambar powder or balsamic vinegar could be used for a chocolatey concoction? Opening up palates and experiences, savoury-styled as well as herb and spice infused flavours are redefining the conventional tastes associated with the cocoa bean. From tangy to spicy and salty, the bar of sweet goodness is now a choc-a-block with surprises as chocolatiers experiment with not-so-go-to ingredients like masala chai and black Malabar peppercorn.

"The concept of savoury

chocolates

is like history repeating itself as we are rediscovering the cocoa fruit, which was consumed raw and as a beverage before the 16th century. The unprocessed version was a savoury and there was nothing sweet about it," says Mumbai-based Zeba Kohli of Fantasie Fine Chocolate who was in Chennai recently for a chocolate tasting session. "The present idea of having chocolates as a savoury is a fun fad that tickles the palate and makes people inquisitive about the ingredients," she says.

Her tryst with sambar powder was one such fun experiment for a chocolate tasting session in Bengaluru. "People did not realise that sambar powder was used in the ganache but they were excited that the combination worked so well," says Kohli.

To tingle the taste buds, Chenddyna Schae, owner of Bengaluru-based chocolate store Jus’ Trufs, created sea salt chilli bars, cheddar cheese, and balsamic vinegar truffles. The idea is to go with one’s intuition and palate into newer territories. "Some people are pleasantly surprised and some combinations shock the system, but it creates a range that caters to different palate profiles," says Schae, whose white chocolate with jalapeno dip, and potato crisps with chocolate fondue have led many of her customers into the exploratory path.

The Indian market is still nibbling at the edges when it comes to

savouries

, feel some in the industry, as most people still see a bar of chocolate as a substitute for sweets. "In my experience, savoury chocolates have not really picked up as it has in the West. But it shows that chefs are willing to learn and people are ready to try," says Chennai-based chocolate taster L Nitin Chordia. In 2014, he worked with a city hotel to lay out a five-course meal with chocolates, down to the drink and appetizer. "Such events are fantastic as experiences but they are not yet mainstream," says Chordia.

It is herb infusions like masala chai, lemongrass, coriander and thyme which are the flavours to savour, according to him. "These are natural inclusions and not about a shocking ingredient. These are off the beaten track but do not really push the envelope," says the owner of Cocoatrait, which holds chocolate appreciation classes and brings fine chocolates to consumers.

On the spice route are young chocolatiers like Sanjoy Solomon of Bean Therapy. The Guntur chilli and Malabar peppercorn under his label provide the kick and crunch of local

spices

, which he agrees are experiments and risks worth to at least initiate the idea of spiciness in a largely sweet product.

It’s the pairing that makes the flavours distinctive and interesting, feels Kohli. "For me, savoury chocolates work best as marinade and in beverages," she says. Her wasabi chocolates and peppered wafers are to be seen as palate cleansers paired with wine or a dish, which is too sweet, she adds.