Enjoying a strategic position at the very heart of India, the state of Madhya Pradesh has been witness to a galaxy of people – from ambitious armies to clever merchants, from curious explorers to spiritual figures. Each of them carried with them their ideas, their dreams, their aspirations and sometimes, even their disappointments.
While these figures have passed into history, what they left behind are examples of built heritage that dot the land. A few of these are celebrated, some – such as Bhimbetka, Sanchi, Khajuraho – are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. A few others such as the forts and palaces of Gwalior, Mandu and Orchha, to name a few, are well-known. But there is a vast number of other structures which are relatively obscure.
In the run-up to the India completing 75 years of Freedom, TOI showcases 75 examples of such less-known examples of heritage structures from the state, in all their imperfection. This series – the ‘75 Secrets of Madhya Pradesh’ – begins today. We begin by focusing on the districts in the northern part of the state often the least explored from a heritage perspective and then make our way to other parts. The challenge in this series was not what to pick, but what to leave out. We hope that this series will encourage you to explore some of these interesting places for yourself. Happy reading!
AterThe Chambal River is visible from the top of Ater fort – perhaps that’s why the Bhadauria Rajputs built it here in the mid-17th century CE as a vantage point. It remained their hub till 1835 and the complex was bult over time – today the Raja Mahal, Rani Mahal, Kutcheri and other pavilions and halls of audience still stand, albeit in a ruined st ate. As per an inscription found here, the original name of the fort was Devgarh – possibly named after its founder Raja Badan Singh Bhadauria Deoju. The ruins of the fort have sheltered many over time, from soldiers to dacoits. Now this chapter of history awaits visitors.
GohadSouth of Ater lies Gohad, the jagirdari of which was granted in 1505 CE to Jat Raja Singhdev II by Man Singh Tomar of Gwalior. Over time, Gohad was a matter of contention between the Jats, the Bhadaurias and later, the Scindias. The current structure is attributed to Rana Chhatar Singh who reigned from around 1757 CE. A visitor today will experience the lost glory of the place. Elsewhere in the town lies the Laxman Talaiya, a stepped tank also built by Chhatar Singh. On one side of the tank is a graceful pavilion which is a temple. In its prime, it would have been a delight to sit in the peaceful shrine, bringing relief on the hottest summer day. The place has become a dumping ground for locals though it is not too far gone for restoration. On the outskirts of the town is another marker to its past the tomb of Pierre Lambert a French mercenary who died in a skirmish with the Scindias while serving his Jat masters. The tomb now finds itself in a field, which is private property. It is crumbling gently, much like the memory
of Gohad’s history.
Dang6 kms from Gohad, in the village of Dang, is an ancient Shiva temple dating to the 8th – 9th century CE. Built by the Gurjara-Pratihara rulers who dominated the region then, it was given a shikhara by the Jat rulers of Gohad, implying it remained in worship over centuries.
The difference between the ornate lower part of the 3 original shrine and the later-constructed shikhara is stark the latter being rich in Hindu iconography while the former is plain. Visible are Ganesha, Kartikeya and various forms of Vishnu. The inner shrine has a Shiva linga. Scattered around are more fragments and the remains of a few Sati pillars.
The temple is indicative of the wealth of heritage in the region.