125 yrs on, Chamarajpet still exudes warmth, old-world charm

Nagesh Sidhanti
Steeped in modern Bengaluru’s psyche, Chamarajpet has been a kind host to over six generations now. A kaleidoscope of many cultures, the first planned layout of Bengaluru is a microcosm of the city’s famous inclusive spirit.
When the visionary Maharaja Sri Chamarajendra Wadiyar X developed it in 1892, there weren’t many takers initially.It took an outbreak of plague in 1898 for residents to move here. The extension was named after its creator who had an untimely death in 1894.
“Fifth Main was commonly known as Diwanara beedi, as it housed the sprawling cottages of diwans KR Srinivasa Iyengar, Chandrashekar Iyer and Puttanna Chetty. Our 2.5-acre land remains untouched,” beams Sriram, the great-grandson of Iyengar, to whose family’s rootedness Chamarajpet owes its last surviving lung space.
International cricketer of yore and star coach, Puttanna Chetty’ grandson PS Vishwanath, fondly recalls: “During the 1930s, we walked through the jowar plantations to reach National High School”. But he laments the lack of pedestrian infrastructure today that has forced him to settle down in Mysuru. “Can one cross the roads without feeling unsafe,” he asks. The question finds resonance in many Bengalureans.
In 1939, the young SV Narayanaswamy Rao started Ramaseva Mandali harikathas, which were blown into full-fledged kacheris progressively, a musical heritage which is the pride of Bengaluru today. “Hanuman’s tail is growing by the year,” says his son SN Varadaraj, tongue firmly in cheek.
Another early settler was George Hoover, who went on to become an independent MLA of Chickpet. “His shiny Blue Austin used to be a real head-turner. As a legislator, he was instrumental in getting Good Friday a holiday status,” says his granddaughter Rosie, her eyes twinkling. Hoover’s family also ran a stud farm just behind Uma Theater.
Founded in 1943 and still thriving, Prakash Cafe has a long list of prime ministers, presidents, chief ministers and foreign dignitaries as its customers. “Literary colossus TP Kailasam used to frequent the place during his last days,” says the owner, Subramanya, thanks to whose family’s unflinching resolve, Prakash Cafe has been saved from becoming yet another aluminium-clad monstrosity.
“My grandfather bought this plot measuring 30x108 for Rs 54 in 1905,” recalls Venugopal who still runs BVK Murthy Studio, founded by his father in 1941. “These uniquely sized plots were laid across five main and nine cross roads, with an intermediate conservancy lane. “The fact that it’s still working even after 125 years of rampant growth — especially over the last couple of decades — credits our early planners,” opines Malavika Gurunath from Plan Nanjappa family.
Having spent my initial 18 years here, I believe I am a stirred-in-Chamundeshwari Coffee Chamarajpet boy. Come Ganesh Chathurthi, we youngsters used to form little groups to see 108 Ganeshas; hence, there were hardly any strangers in the neighbourhood. The happy residents sent us back with prasadam and greetings. This Bangalority – a term assumed to describe their quintessential warmth and friendliness — can be seen and felt to this day, as I did, while reconnecting with them for this write-up. To its loyal inhabitants, Chamarajpet is not merely a place of residence, but a set of cherished utopian values that need to be protected.
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Celebrating the milestone
On Janurary 28 and 29, the Chamarajpet 125 years Varshacharana Samiti has invited the Mysuru royal family to take part in the celebrations, that include processions, tree planting and installation of a stone monument outlining its history. For details, contact their office on 3rd Main.
(The author is a Chamarajpet-ite with a longing to reclaim lost emotional spaces the city once offered)