AHMEDABAD: As the evening namaaz ends, the smell of lean meat fried in cornflour batter and seasoned with soya sauce and aji-no-moto wafts through the narrow alleys of the Walled city. It’s a Chinese invasion out here. The Mughlai mutton korma, kababs, raan and chaaps have lost their places to chicken lollipop, rice Singapori, chilly chicken and chicken manchurian.
Bhattiyaar gali — Ahmedabad’s most popular haunt for Mughlai non-vegetarian food — has succumbed to Chinese hegemony.
Ashwaq Sheikh, who runs a popular food laari at Lal Darwaja, said: "Mughlai food requires a lot of skill and time to prepare, while Chinese stuff is easier to cook and takes less time." Besides, he feels it is getting popular among the young who frequent his joint.Gone is the tradition of marinating meat in exotic spices from the Middle East. The iftaar is now done by digging into fast food — which is middle-eastern cuisine improvised to suit Gujarati tastebuds. Mohammad Zubeer, owner of a restaurant in Bhattiyaar gali, adds: "Mughlai food is now restricted to the five star hotels because its ingredients have become very expensive." His excuse for experimenting with Chinese cuisine is plain economics and strangely, the customers seem to prefer it!Chinese food is widely available in almost every street corner of the Walled City, rues Farooq Zalal, who runs a shop in Bangla market in Jamalpur, another food haunt. "It’s now very expensive to get chefs who cook Mughlai food and we cannot afford them. It is a job that needs highly skilled people. Moreover, Mughlai preparations need more time and spices, which can all be avoided by turning to Chinese items." Zalal also says that he improvised on the raan and other Mughlai dishes to make them "less expensive".